86 4Runner 7MGE Swap

Update 2/11/2006
I sold this about a year ago. Someday, maybe I'll finish this writeup, but it's not likely...

Well I had a 7MGE sitting in the garage and needed to do something with all my free time (not), so I bought this 86 4runner. Before pics are here. Since I am familiar with the web stuff now I decided to give more of a how-to description of this swap than I did on my 88 4runner swaps so hopefully it can be of use to people interested in doing this to their own rig.

The first thing to do is pull out the 22RE along with the radiator & shroud, the afm, the igniter & coil, etc, so that is where I started. A friend (thanks Coeurd) gave me an engine hoist, but the seals were blown on the hydraulic ram. Since I was all ready to pull the engine and didn't want to be stopped by an equipment failure I jimmy rigged the hoist using a porta-puller, which worked well except that it didn't have the necessary extension travel. I actually had to let the air out of the front tires so that the engine would clear the hood latch crossmember :) I'll have to get a new ram before installing the 7MGE. Here are a few initial pics:


Next I decided to move the battery tray to the passenger side, and then repaint the fender firewalls afterward. I just drilled out the spot welds that hold the battery tray on, cut and tweaked the tray, and then welded it on to the drivers side. It worked out pretty well.


After completing the battery tray I decided to take care of the fuel lines. The 7MGE intake is on the driver side while the 22RE intake is on the passenger side, so the pressure and the return lines need to be rerouted to the driver side. This can be done by leaving all of the existing line where it is and adding some line to the end of it to run to the drivers side intake manifold or by rerouting the lines to the driver side right from the tank. I though about it and decided to route them to the driver side from the tank just like I did on my 88 GTE swap. This is the more labor intensive, loss costly way to do it, but I feel it is better because it keeps the fuel lines away from the exhaust downpipe altogether. If you choose to go this route beware: There is a line clip on the top of the frame, right where the frame cross-brace is just behind the tranny, and if you don't have a body lift it is an extreme PITA to remove the bolt holding it in so that you can free the fuel pressure line from the line clip holding it there along with two brake lines. With a 1" body lift it is a fairly easy proposition to remove, but without one as I was working on, it took a lot of time and effort. The lines that I rerouted are only the pressure line and the return? line. There is one pressure line that runs from the tank to the fuel rail ultimately and another line (return line?) that runs to the intake manifold. The other fuel line runs from the charcoal canister to the fuel tank. I left the line from the charcoal canister to the fuel tank where it was and rerouted the other two. If you choose to reroute your fuel lines this way be prepared to spend at least four hours getting the job done (you will need to drop the fuel tank as well), and have some line clips handy so that you can mount the newly run lines on the driver side to the frame rail. The piece of mind in knowing that I will not have problems with my fuel heating up is well worth the time involved in rerouting the fuel lines. I welded one line clip to the frame, welded a nut to the frame over a hole in one spot to mount a clip to, and used an existing nut under the body for one. The first pic is with the lines in their general position until I tried the engine in to see exactly where I wanted them to be. The stock muffler hat shield will be reinstalled.



The mounting of the engine for this swap requires very little customization. Aside from modifying the oil pan and pickup (below)and clearencing the firewall, all that is needed are some 5MGE engine mounts out of a mkii supra (82-86.5) and a bell housing and clutch fork from a naturally aspirated mkiii supra (86.5-92), provided that the truck/4runner you are swapping into began as a 4 cyl meaning that the transmission is either a G or W series. The tranny side NA supra bellhousing bolt pattern matches that of those series transmissions. If you begin with a 4runner that is a v6 (3VZE), then you have a lot more work to do, as described on my 88 4runner swap page. Below are pictures of the 7M mounts installed on the engine while trying it in. As you can see, it does not line up at all. The 5M brackets install on the bolts forward of the 7M bolt pattern, and they put the engine in the perfect front to back position to line up with the transmission properly. When using the 5M mounts, use the brackets only and retain your original rubber part so that it will bolt up to the existing frame-side mounts. The 5M mounts line up a little bit narrower than the 4 cyl truck frameside mounts, and rather than making it up by stretching the rubber way out I used 2 grade 8 washers at each bolt location. They lined up quite well width-wise after that.

7M(wrong) mounts installed on engine with NA bellhousing on tranny. Notice how far away from the tranny the back of the engine is, even though the mounts are lined up. The 5M mounts install on the set of bossed forward of the 7M ones.
5M mounts installed


The firewall also needs to be clearanced to make room for the egr on one side and a coolant port on the other side. Once you try the engine in it becomes quite apparent where this needs to happen. The pics below show the firewall after the clearencing was done. I marked the clearanced areas on the photos. Bear in mind that I did not install a body lift on this 4Runner. With a body lift installed there would be less clearencing required, and it would also make several other parts of the swap easier.


Oil pan

The front differential interferes with the oil pan when using the mounting scheme above and stock front diff placement. However, the interference is not severe and the modifications to the oil pan and oil pickup are minimal. As shown in the pics, the oil pan I used had been abused. It was installed on my japanese 7mgte when it was shipped, but it will do it's job just fine. My modifications are shown below



There are lots of minor things to do along the way to make things fit, such as

  • Move the slave cylinder line to the drivers side (I used the 7MGE slave cylinder)
  • Move some brake lines to the near the brake booster to avoid abrasion with the intake manifold
  • Many more things that I can't think of right now



I used a stock supra radiator for this swap because I had an extra one. I had a 90 degree bend installed on each neck to make it easier to route the lines with the limited space between the radiator and the engine. I used stock supra lower radiator mounts that I cut off of a junked supra. They are welded to the frame cross member as shown. The upper mounts are also stock supra ones, modified so that they install with one bolt without the locking tab that they used stock. I mounted a Flex-a-lite dual pusher (230 model) on the front side of the radiator. Fitment of these parts requires cutting out a lot of the sheet metal behind the grill as shown (the first pic is before I cut anything out). I did retain the stock hood latch though, and to support it I welded a support bar at each end. I welded 6X1.00 nuts on the back of the support bars so that I could thread bolts through them which act as upper fan mounts. The lower mounts hold the fan up and in place, the upper ones just keep the top of it pressed against the radiator.


Power Steering

I managed to bend the original 4 cyl pressure line around to make it work pretty well with the 7m power steering pump location. It is WAY more difficult to form than fuel line by the way, I had to use a vise to get the job done, but it didn't kink. I bought some hose for the low pressure return line, and I modified a stock supra reservoir mount to fit nicely on the pass side fenderwell. (pics coming)



I ordered a K&N air filter with the dimensions that I wanted from Summit. K&N has great sizing data here. I used the model RU-3700, it has a 3" inlet flange and it is slightly tapered. At right is the plate I made to mount it to the afm using exhaust tubing. For the rest of the intake plumnbing I used some rubber elbows that originally came from the 7mge, though I trimmed some of them. I retained the stock baffle for noise reduction as well.

<pic of final installation>


I bought a downpipe off of a 7mge cressida and modified it as shown for the start of the exhaust:

<pics of the full exhaust install to come>



Because the battery was moved to the other side, the power supply wire for the engine fuse box needed to be lengthened and ran to the other side as well. I ran it inside the wire loom that goes inside the hood latch mounting bar.